Sarah Kendzior’s passion for climbing, along with her route to working at REI, began at a climbing gym in Wisconsin where she grew up. She took an introductory course and was quickly hooked. Kendzior started climbing outdoors and eventually progressed into alpine multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering.
After graduating from college, she worked for a time in product development for a large department store and then spent a year and a half dirtbagging around the world. Eventually, she moved to Seattle in 2018 for a job with REI and is now the co-op’s buyer for climbing gear and shoes.
Memories of her own introduction to climbing continue to inspire Kendzior when she looks at the industry. “Climbing gyms allow people from all backgrounds, income levels and ages to get stoked to one day climb outdoors if they choose,” she says. The same pattern she followed—learning in a gym and transitioning to climbing outdoors—is being repeated all around the country. Gyms open; new athletes get hooked. Climbing “brings in some of the youngest and most diverse members to the co-op,” Kendzior says.
Some of the coolest new climbing gear exhibits that same democratic, scrappy spirit with uncompromising sourcing, clever fixes to age-old problems and, dare we say, sexily sustainable designs. It’s fair to say that if Kendzior is impressed, you’ll want to pay attention.
Here, Kendzior, a co-op member since 2016, recommends five climbing products, like handmade chalk bags from STATIC, which reinvests a portion of their profits into seamstress organizations local to San Diego where the brand is based.
Petzl NEOX Assisted Blocking Belay Device
Petzl’s NEOX is an assisted belay device built for lead climbing outdoors or in the gym. Whereas the GRIGRI—the top-selling climbing item at the co-op—can sometimes lock up while the belayer is paying out slack, this new technology has an integrated wheel that prevents the rope from catching, leading to a smoother belay experience. This means no more scary, stuttering belays for lead climbers. The technology will make the biggest difference for smaller-bodied belayers and people with “a negative ape index” (or whose arm span is shorter than their height). “As a shorter woman letting out slack for a tall lead partner with longer arms, it was difficult [with a GRIGRI],” Kendzior says. “But now it feels seamless.” $149.95
Edelrid Zodiac 3R Helmet
Edelrid has been at the cutting edge of climbing for over 150 years. The company continues to snag a bunch of industry firsts. Bluesign®-certified since 2009, they released the NEO 3R, a climbing rope made of 50% recycled materials. Now, with the Zodiac 3R, they’ve produced a helmet partially made from recycled materials. The helmet’s outer shell is made entirely out of recycled climbing ropes from Edelrid’s production. The inner foam is 50% recycled too. Plus, it looks good. “When you think of sustainability, you think you’re going to lose some of the sexiness,” Kendzior says. “But that’s not true here. It’s sleek.” $69.95
La Sportiva Mandala Climbing Shoes
La Sportiva was the first climb shoe brand carried by the co-op to have a Climate Neutral certification. Now they’ve brought that same innovative spirit to a key feature in climbing shoes: the edge rubber. The edge has historically seemed as essential to a climbing shoe as the downturned toe or the sticky rubber. But now La Sportiva is going edgeless. The Italian brand has introduced a series of no-edge shoes whose wrapped sole and rounded toe means the shoe has increased sensitivity without compromising grip, even on the smallest of holds. Without the single edge at the toe, the entire front end of the foot can be used to balance on even the tiniest rock chips and indoor footholds. An added bonus: This distributes use across the forefront, allowing the shoe to wear more evenly and, ultimately, last longer. $209
STATIC Waxed Canvas Chalk Bag
The co-op began carrying STATIC when a former REI assistant buyer came across the product line while browsing Etsy. Since then, STATIC has grown to be the co-op’s top supplier of climbing chalk bags. The female-owned company was founded in 2014, when it was just Taylor Barnes and a sewing machine in her garage. A decade later, every bag is still handmade by the five-person team in San Diego. And STATIC sources fabrics and other materials from small companies. Climbers can also reduce waste by swapping waist belt, which sold separately, between chalk bags. The best part? The bags come with a lifetime warranty. Blow a seam, and Barnes will restitch it for you herself. $35
Trango Superfly Evo Autolock Carabiner
Browsing the carabiner aisle, a customer without a clear sense of what they’re looking for might get lost in a sea of orange and gray aluminum. Not anymore. Trango’s newest autolocker is lime green. Auto-locking carabiners tend to sell better than their screw-lock counterparts, but Trango also offers the Superfly Evo Screwlock Carabiner in a cool cyan with a fuchsia lock gate. The no-frills hardware with bright, unusual color combinations speaks to a generation of younger climbers. $14.95